Charlotte Bryar: Many lenses are suitable for landscape photography with Nikon D5300. As for prime lenses, there are only manual focus lenses available for your camera: - Nikon 14mm F/2.8D ED (in fact it's autofocus lens, but with your camera it will become manual)- Samyang 14mm F/2.8 IF ED UMC Aspherical- Samyang 16mm F/2 ED AS UMC CS- 2 Carl Zeiss Lenses (i think it's too much for the start)As for zoom lenses:- Nikon AF-S 10-24mm F/3.5-4.5G ED- Sigma 10-20mm F/3.5 EX DC HSM- Sigma 10-20mm F/4-5.6 EX DC HSM- Tamron SP AF 10-24mm F/3.5-4.5 Di II LD Aspherical IF- Nikon AF-S 12-24mm F/4G IF-ED- SIgma 12-24mm F/4.5-5.6 DG HSM II- Tokina AT-X Pro AF SD 12-24mm F/4 IF DX II- Tokina AT-X Pro 12-28mm F/4 IF DXOf course I'm not an Einstein and don't keep all that lenses' names just in case when somebody asks for the advice. You could find out what lenses are suitable for different genres of photography with your camera with Photo Lens Finder: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/phot! o-lens-finder/......Show more
Eleni Mccier: For a fast wide angle lens for starscapes without trails then put aside your understandable but incorrect suspicion of 3rd party lenses and consider the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens .Otherwise for landscapes a lens in the 10-20mm range makes a lot of sense. I use a Sigma (!) 10-20 f/4-5.6 and get some very good results with it.
Ollie Hamiel: I love the Nikon 14-24 that I use with my D800. Incredible detail and very wide angle. If you get really close to a subject you can also get some freaky shots :)
Nelly Kikuchi: 1
Alexis Reyer: Actually, you can make excellent landscape pictures with the 18mm end of an 18-55mm zoom lens. Having a good tripod along with good composition and knowing how to maximize your depth of field (DOF) are more important than a wider angle of view. This is not to say, however, that a lens like the Tamron SP 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 DiII LD Aspherical (IF) wouldn't be nice to have. One especiall! y nice feature is the distance scale it has which the standard! Nikon 18-55mm zoom lacks. A distance scale makes achieving maximum DOF for landscapes easier. There are only three factors that affect your DOF: 1) The focal length of the lens; 2) The aperture used; 3) The subject distance. At this site:http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html you can use the DOF Calculator to compute your DOF for any combination of the three factors imaginable. Here is an example using the 10mm end of the aforementioned Tamron zoom on your camera.10mm @ f/16 with the distance scale at 3 feet DOF is from 9 inches to infinity. Anything from 9 inches in front of your camera to infinity will be in focus.Here are sites that will help you with astrophotography.http://astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/TOC_AP.HTMhttp://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2008/12/how-to-astr...http://www.davidkingham.com/blog/2012/11/how-to-av..."500 Rule"http://600rule.com Robert Howell Photography"600Rule"Both are simple division. Divide either 500 or 600 by the focal length of the lens being used and! then divide that by the 1.5 crop factor of your camera.500/20mm = 25; 25/1.5 = 16.6. Round down to 16 and that's your exposure time - 16 seconds.600/20mm = 30; 30/1.5 = 20. Your exposure time is 20 seconds.NOTE: Neither of these sites made any mention of aperture or ISO that I could find. I suggest starting with whatever lens you're using set wide open and set your ISO to 800. If your image is too dark go to ISO 1600. If its too light go to ISO 400. Fortunately, digital makes such experimentation easy....Show more
Norine Lomonte: I use long lenses for landscape, but most people prefer wide-angles.
Buster Exline: If you are thinking about landscapes, I would look at prime lenses anything on or below 24mm. Two reasons to recommend primes - it will give you a good quality base to shoot and also enhance your creativity by thinking more about moving positon camera and angle - zooms can make you think you are getting a variety of perspectives, but all you are effecti! vely doing is moving along the same plane.Prime lenses and landscapes y! ou can also think about manual lenses as an option - not sure about Nikon Family LensesFrom Bill Ferris:Of course, one of the most important pieces of equipment for a photographer is the lens through which a scene is captured. For landscape photography, your most versatile lens will be a wide angle. These are short focal length lenses that deliver wide, true fields of view. That wide field of view allows greater flexibility in composing a shot encompassing the full grandeur of a landscape. I recommend a minimum focal length of 12mm for APS-C bodies (cropped sensor) and 18mm for full-frame cameras.Fortunately for your wallet, this does not need to be a fast lens which are designed to have focal ratios of f/2.8 or faster. They are consider fast because their large apertures collect enough light to keep exposures brief, even in low light conditions. Large apertures demand a large front lens element, which comes at a steep price. And while the performance can be well worth the ! investment, many photographers simply don’t have room in their budgets for such a purchase. Since you’ll be shooting at f/8 or greater, a lens with a maximum focal ratio of f/4 should more than meet your needs.Bill Ferris is an Arizona landscape photographer who enjoys shooting the diverse personalities of Grand Canyon National Park. His fine art landscape prints are available on his website, you can read more on his blog also....Show more
Natalya Sydney: An 18-55mm, the kit lens that comes with most entry level DSLRs, is suitable for landscapes!!! I don't know who is telling you it isn't - but I assure you it is!!!Wide apertures are not generally required for daytime landscape photography - mostly you'll want to stop down to f/8 to f/22, to make sure the shots are crystal clear.Shots of the milky way don't really come under landscape photography - you are really getting into the realm of astrophotography. It's certainly not regular landscape photography. Sure wi! der apertures will help, but you can always just use a longer exposure ! + higher ISO. Anything up to about 30 seconds shouldn't cause too many star trails - they'll be even less obvious if you are using a wide angle lens.If you want something wider than an 18-55mm (on a camera with a cropped sensor), think about getting an ultra wide angle zoom - such as a 10-20mm. If you have a full frame camera, lenses such as a 28mm f/2.8 would be good for night shots of a landscape with the milky way. But the lens won't be so wide on a camera with a cropped sensor. You have to take the crop factor into consideration. http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-nikon-28mm-f2-8...There are some very good third party brands - look at Sigma, Tokina, Tamron - all make excellent wide angle zooms.For example Sigma makes a 17-50mm f/2.8 http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lens/standard-lens... - which would be ideal for a camera with a cropped sensor....Show more
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